Chevrolet Colorado Reliability and Common Issues Between 2004-2012
The new Chevy Colorado is giving the entire Colorado generation a bad name. Because of that, I decided to see just how “unreliable “ the older Colorado is. And, it’s really not all that bad besides some minor issues.
In this article I’ll go over the common issues on the Chevy Colorado between 2004-2012 to better educate you about your ride or your future purchase.
Got to start with the most noteworthy issue:
Valve Seats:
The valve seats within the head of the inline 5 motor can become damaged due to the guides becoming loose making the car run rough, cause misfires and potentially illuminate the check engine light. IF the valves brake off completely, you could end up tearing up the entire engine.
The fix you ask?
You can do 1 0f two things:
Replace the entire head with a more durable one, which is what GM recommends.
Or
You can simply get the stock head repaired with new valve guides, seals and a fresh valve job.
Pass lock Security issue:
There’s a pass lock security issue with these trucks basically not recognizing the oem key. The truck would crank but wont startup due to its anti theft system. When this first happens, you are supposed to turn the key onto the on position for 10 minutes, then turn the key off, then back on and hopefully it will crank over hoping the car will recognize the key. You can attempt this all the way up to 20 minutes. However, the typical solution is installing a new ignition lock cylinder, which costs around $90 but requires you to pull the steering wheel to replace it. Or, you could go pull just the sensor from another truck at the junkyard and hope it works properly. The sensor just requires you to remove the plastic cover under the steering wheel, and remove the sensor with two screws. Sadly, this sensor doesn’t sell new separately.
Here is what I’m talking about:
https://youtu.be/w0SiUYNp38M?t=149
Then you’ll have to do a 30 min learning procedure with the new sensor. Pause the video if you need to look over this.
- Turn ON ignition, with engine OFF.
- Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. the vehicle will not start.
- Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale light will turn OFF.
- Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds
- Repeat step 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicles is now ready to learn
the Pass lock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
Important:
The vehicle learns the Pass lock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next
ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF
before attempting to start the vehicle.
- Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Pass lock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
- With a scan tool clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles. )
Weak front driveshaft cv joints
https://youtu.be/2vm_yb-_mtQ?t=8
The front drive shaft is known to be one of the weak links with these trucks. Upgrading it with a performance aftermarket replacement would be a good idea.
You could replace the boot of the driveshaft, which is pretty straight forward and requires you to remove a total of 8 bolts to remove the shaft, splice the boot open, and remove the snap ring to install the new CV joint. (https://youtu.be/F5D-_2vrQNg )
Or you could order an upgraded driveshaft that won’t break from rocky mountain driveline. If you are off-roading, this is the option you should go with. Ill link all the parts in the description below for your convenience!
Upgraded drive shafts: https://www.driveshaftinternational.com/
Front Driveshaft CV Joint: https://amzn.to/3wpgPYv
Frame rust
Like most older vehicles, you should check all down the frame for rust. Last thing you’d want is your truck snapping in half on the highway.
Splice pack ground issue
Are you having electrical issues you don’t understand and you don’t have any popped fuses, well it might be an issue with one of the two grounding splice packs. SP105 is located on the drivers side and SP106 is located on the passenger side behind the engines air box. Seems that the SP106 causes most of the issues.
Depending which issue you have, you can determine further which Splice pack you need to tackle. Pause the video if you need to look at this any longer.
Perhaps just copy and paste this so it’s easy-ish to see!
SP 105:
https://youtu.be/T8PDQyY6lMo?t=97
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Headlamp Beam-Select Relay (relay #47) and headlamps
Fuel pump and fuel-level sender
Fuel Pump (relay #51)
Run/Crank (relay #61)
Brake Reservoir level switch (sensor)
Wiper relay 1 ( relay #57)
Wiper relay 2 (relay #63)
Windshield motor
Windshield washer pump motor
Electric door locks – driver’s
Outside electric mirrors
Inside mirror (courtesy lamps on the mirror)
Tail lamps (all… t-s, brake-lamps, back-up lamps, 3rd brake lamps)
Front turn-signal and marker lamps
Fog-lamp relay
Fog-lamps
Cargo lamp
Horn
SP 106:
https://youtu.be/T8PDQyY6lMo?t=59
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Automatic transmission shift-lock control solenoid
HVAC control module
HVAC evaporator temperature sensor
Data Link Connector
Transfer-case control module (4WD only)
Transfer-case control switch (4WD only)
Window switch, right rear (crew cab only)
Door lock and window switch – front passenger
Heated seats option
Headlamp dimmer switch
Turn-signal/multifunction switch
Accessory switch (not sure what this is)
Hazard Lamp switch
Auxiliary power outlets (two)
https://www.355nation.net/threads/the-ground-problem-and-355-splice-packs.183842/
You’ll most likely need to clean up the connections and the grounding spot/bolt.
5.3L Issue:
If you opt for the 5.3 flex fuel variant, those engines are known to drop lifters, which can cause major damage if not properly taken care of immediately. Best option is to do an AFM delete which is a not an easy thing to do, however, it beats tearing up the engine.
Other mentionable issues:
The fuel pump can fail. Which is typical of any older vehicle, however, there have been more than average reports of this happening with this truck. The fuel level sensor can also read incorrectly, and that is located on top of the fuel pump as well. Removing the truck bed with its 4 bolts seems to be the easiest way to get to the pump which is located in the fuel tank.
The brake light switch fails, it’s very easy to get to and it’s as easy as unplugging the unit and plugging it back in. Once again, the parts and how to videos are linked below. (https://youtu.be/yy5vnEokby8?t=64 )
Final thoughts
There are many of these trucks with high miles, to make the truck feel like new id replace the cab to body mounts, engine mounts, front suspension, carrier bearing, and rear leaf springs.
These trucks are actually very reliable and although I pointed out some common issues, there is no guarantee you’ll have these issues. The 5 cylinder can easily last over 250k miles.
Tired of reading? Watch this instead!