Image By: Christopher Ziemnowicz

The 2nd Gen Jeep Cherokee XJ is known to easily last upwards to 300k miles with its nearly bulletproof 4L I6 engine.

The Cherokee XJ has been in production since 1984 but received a refresh in 1997 finally ending the XJs production in 2001.

To many, the XJ is the ultimate jeep that can be as capable as most wranglers with the huge variety of aftermarket parts all while being pretty cheap.

Although the jeep is awesome, how reliable is it? Of course, with most jeeps being toys or projects, the issues may vary, but here are some of the most common issues with the Jeep Cherokee XJ from 1997-2001 that you should know about to just be better educated about your ride and wait for the end when I talk about the costliest repair.

Let us get started!

(Where the drive shaft meets the rear diff)

Thumping noise when accelerating from a stop. Might sound like there is a bowling ball in the rear of the car. Basically, the slip yoke is requiring some grease. The slip yoke is getting sticky and causing the thumping noise. Unclasp the rubber boot over the slip yoke, pull it out as much as you can and add some axle grease to it. That should fix the issue.

Here is a video if the thumping happening without the sleeve:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTgMopMD39s&ab_channel=Marcelosuzuki

(Door window Switch)

Only the driver door switches work except for the window lockout switch, and all other window switches may not work on the rest of the doors. This is most likely due to lockout switch being shorted. Probably due to a torn wire. All you must do is remove the door panel and follow the wire from the lock out switch and find where the wire has split and reconnect it.

(Windows)

The windows may not roll up or down, and that is a failed window regulator, but if the window only rolls up or only down, then that is yet again another bad wire. So, same procedure. Follow the wire, find the tear, and reconnect it.

(No Start)

No start issues most likely corelated with the Neutral Safety Switch being a bit dirty. After messing with the shifter for a bit and the jeep starts, this is the issue. All you must do is gain access to the NNS switch and clean it or replace it. NickInTimeFilms shows what I’m talking about at 9:15 seconds: https://youtu.be/VwpYe-0xRAU?t=548

(Squeaks)

Annoying Squeaking from the rear of the car, most likely due to either the tailgate latch or the seat latches. Some grease will fix that right up.

(Cracking Exhaust Manifold)

The exhaust manifold is prone to cracking and it can be quite pricey to repair especially if you take it to the mechanic. You can weld the crack, but that is just a temporary fix. Go ahead and upgrade the exhaust manifold with one that is resistant to cracking and you will be good to go.

(No start again)

Fuel injectors becoming heat soaked and causing a rough idle or a no start after you shut off the engine when it is hot. This is due to the engine compartment becoming very hot when it is turned off, so an increase of ventilation will help this issue and adding mini heat shields around the fuel injectors can resolve this issue as well. Adding hood vents, a fan on a timer, or leaving the hood cracked will increase the airflow under the hood.

(Death Wobble)

Jeep starts to shake and feels like it is going to basically fall apart at around 35mph. This is due to the suspension’s geometry. Basically, one of the tire rod ends could be faulty, a bad alignment or what mostly happens is this bolt comes loose allowing too much movement.  The bolt that I mention, Bleepin Jeep talks about it in his video at 2:15:  https://youtu.be/gVJx8buTE8I?t=129

(Water leak)

Water leaking onto the passenger floorboard. It could be a leaking cowl, or the blow motor seal going bad. Pour water near the blower motor location and see if that is where the water leak is coming from. Then trouble shoot from there.  This video does an alright job on explaining this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgQAx_Y7pas&ab_channel=IDGAXJ-SimpleOverlander

(Frame issue)

Rotting out unibody which is very common in the rust belt. If the frame is rusty, do not buy the jeep. You will be in for the scraper if you do. Now, if there is just surface rust, you are fine. But look all around the frame and make sure there are not any major rust spots.

(Oil pressure gauge)

the oil pressure sending unit is faulty causing the gauge to bounce around giving false reading and probably freaking you out. So, if the gauge is being all kinds of funky, this is most likely your issue. Replacing the sending unit is easy and straight forward.

(Brakes Calipers)

The brake calipers sticking and not functioning properly, which is dangerous. This is due to dirt and debris getting behind the piston in the brake calipers. You can rebuild them or just replace the calipers. Replacing the calipers may be the way to go and they are fairly cheap to replace.

(Overheating)

finally, this is the costliest repair if you do not fix the issue or catch it in time, well besides the rusty frame. The jeep overheats. This is due to the clutch fan going bad. Ideally, the clutch fan should have a little bit of resistance when you try to turn it. If it spins freely, then this is your overheating issue. Now, of course, if you allow it to overheat, you can easily be in for a head gasket repair or a new engine in total, so be careful.

Those are all the main issues with the Jeep Cherokee XJ. Most to all these issues kind of pertain to the entire generation, but mainly between the 1997-2001 years. If you are in the market for a jeep and want to ensure it will last a long time, make sure you grab one with the I6.

If you do not want to read all this, watch this:

https://youtu.be/eYNNcEWBb3I